A Brass Badged Sargent Made Craftsman #414C.

Here is a Brass Badged Sargent Made Craftsman #414C. I don’t normally restore Craftsman planes anymore. Not because they are not great users, they are, but because they usually have a low resale value. I don’t really know the value of this Brass Badged Sargent Made Craftsman #414C, its probably not extremely valuable, but it fits into my Sargent collection nicely.






Saving the #5!

Join the discussion at http://timetestedtools.forumchitchat.com/post/saving-the-5-7734964?pid=1289352214#post1289352214

I was looking through my broken plane pile for some inspiration. I came across a #5 with some issues.

I set it on the bench for a better look. There has to be a way to save it. A little comparison to a #604, and away we go.

A way to use the original thread even though I haven’t sprung for a tap and die yet.

I decided to leave it sandblasted and clear coated. I like the greyish “gunmetal” look”

— Master hand plane hoarder. – http://timetestedtools.com

Tool Chest Redux. Now that’s better!

So in the last post (Part 1) we left with a almost finished tote.

The tote fits nicely in the front of the chest.

And sits nicely on top when in use.

The next thing I did was cut the saw till down so it will sit in the bottom, under the sliding shelves.

So now what’s left is to figure out what tools go in it. If you look into the tote, one of the small existing shelves fit perfect for a divider.

I also had a question on the bottom of the chest. I’m not sure what or how this came about, but it has a raised panel bottom, almost like the current bottom, was a top at one time.

And I found this inside.

but haven’t decided what to do with it. If it was complete, I’d reattach it.

The extension was made from poplar.
The cover and the top is red oak.
I believe the original is pine.
I was actually thinking of painting the outside, but I came to my senses. I know it doesn’t match, but it’s close enough for me.

A Stanley #45 resurrected.

“What in the world was I thinkin”? My $7 #45 came, but man was it rusty. This will be the first restore I’ve done that required a massive amount of fire. Even after soaking some of the parts for 2 days in evapo-rust, it still took a hefty flame to convince them to come apart.

And me, trying to get it apart. Is it hot in here?

Only broke one bolt, and still managed to get the remnants of that out.

But after soaking, wire wheeling, making a new cherry knob and tote, its back together. I haven’t tested yet, but I should be able to throw a blade in it and see how she rolls soon.

I need to find a few extra bolts. I’ve got 2 complete sets of cutters, so I should be ready to rumble. I may also move the rosewood fence to my other #45 and add a cherry fence to this one.

– See more at: http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/33401#sthash.LgvrnN8i.dpuf

Tuning it up, Bench Plane Style

I brought this magnificent (note the dripping sarcasm) piece of machinery home with me during one of my flea market outings. This is a late model Stanley #4. Its painted Blue, made in the US, has a painted cap, a shorter iron than vintage, and no toe on the tote. The knob and tote is painted black, it has an aluminum frog and a pretty cheezy lateral adjuster. If your still looking, check out what I have for sale.

If you’re looking for a full restoration, look here

Now….why anyone but someone with a sickness for hand planes like me would buy this plane is a little beyond my understanding, unless it was given to you or almost given to you. A note, I’d rather have one of these than any handyman though, and I’d put them in a pretty close running with a Defiance line hand plane. Again, the Defiance can be made to work well pretty consistently, but it takes a little more love than a Stanley Bailey vintage or equivalent.

So the following is some advice on how to make almost any plane work well. I’ll try to separate out my experience in the differences between these and vintage plane.

If your plane needs a full restoration, as in stripping, painting, and parts replaced, go to either my restoration blog , Making a tote blog, turning a knob blog, or a list of possible places to find parts.

Sharpen it
So here is what you do. First sharpen it. See parts 7 and 10 It doesn’t matter what your taste in sharpening is as long as it works for you. It MUST be sharp.

Polish the end of the cap iron
Polish the end of the cap iron This is more important than many people think. It helps with the breaking of the chip.

Check and fix the cap iron if needed. The cap iron must have good contatact with the iron. Any gap at all will collect chips, and clog. Make sure its clean and tight. It should be re-rusted by now with whatever you decided (if it needed it), or you can just wire brush it. I go into more detail here.

Flatten the frog. File the frog flat. I lock it in a vise and hold the file flat while filing it. It doesn’t need to be perfect. Some like to polish this as well, but its not really necessary.

here is the aluminum frog flattened. The aluminum actually took a lot to flatten, but flatten quickly because …… well,…….its aluminum. I’m also not thrilled with the amount of contact area on the Blue frog, but in the end, it did work reasonably well.

Check the frog seating
Also check the frog seating. I very seldom have to do this on a vintage plane, but once in a while one does not seat properly. You can use valve grinding compound and usually it doesn’t take much. In my latest restore I used a block of wood and sand paper.

The best way to tell if it needs seating is as your tightening the screws, or just force the frog down on the seat. You should feel no rocking. You can also use some machinist blue to ensure you’re getting good contact with the two parts.

Next flatten the sole. Use a piece of granite or a table saw top. If it proves to be real bad, I’ll start it on the belt sander, like I do the sides, but I always finish it on the flatter surface of the table saw. Turn the plane front and push in all directions to keep it flat and even.

For longer planes, use sand paper from a role or cut a belt for the task.

Note, I’ve found the older the plane, the less flattening it’ll need. You’d think just the opposite would be true with advancements in manufacturing, but anything made after the 60’s usually makes it to the belt sander. The Blue stanley took longer than most I’ve ever done.

As I’m putting everything together I give it a coat of Fluid Film to keep the rust away.

Or Wax it

The knob and Tote

You will decide how much the knob and tote needs but here are a few tricks to help.

I chuck the knob in the drill press.

Grind the head so it fits in the hole (were possible). Put a washer on the bottom of the knob.

I use a bolt with a 1/4” Philips head that’s been ground down slightly so it fits inside the knob where the brass nut goes. Tighten it down with a washer and chuck it in the drill press. Only chuck it hand tight so you don’t trash the threads.

Sand it with 60 grit if it still has a varnish or hard finish. then up through 500 (or more if desired) grit. If it had an oil finish I’ll start with 220 grit. First few coats of BLO goes on with steel wool while in the drill press. If the existing finish is hard, it is usually easier to scrape it first.

This also helps with waxing. You can spin it fast enough in a drill press to heat the wax.

For the tote, I haven’t found an easier way than possibly scraping if its a hard finish, and sanding as you would any other piece of wood.

Finish the wood with boiled linseed oil (BLO). If its a really dry old piece, soak it in the BLO overnight.


If the mouth is to wide, its pretty hard to fix. You can slide the frog ahead just so far. If its still to wide, you have a couple of options.
1. Turn the plane into a jack
2. Buy a thicker iron.
3. Make it a paper weight.

I’ve test with shimming and haven’t had a whole lot of luck.

1. make sure its sharp
2. make sure your not taking to big of a bite. Thin down the shavings.
3. check the frog for both flatness, make sure the screws are tight, and make sure its seating well.
4. Don’t go buy a thicker iron thinking it will fix it.

Then enjoy the results

I hope it helps and thanks for stopping by.


Sharpening past the DMT and Polishing the iron

I decided to see if I could improve on my dmt sharpness. The good news, I did. The bad news, I did. It’s not a tremendous amount, and not enough to make me go back to waterstones (yet), but I will leave my hard arkansas on the bench from now on.

This is my normal sharpening routine.
1. Hollow grind
2. Hit the edge (do it more and more by hand) on th 3 micron DMT
3. Strop the back
4. Hit the 3 micron DMT again.

So here is with just the 3 micron dmt. Back flatten to the DMT well

EDIT: This first picture is what I started with. It hasn’t been flatten yet (at least not by me)

Polishing the back on the felt wheel with green compound and sharpening with the hard arkansas stone ( I saw a slight difference from the dmt to the arkansas)

Same sequence….

I did this with 4 different hand planes. The 2 shown, the Stanley #18, The sargent 710, and a Bedrock 604 and a Stanley 60 1/2.

All showed a subtle difference. The biggest difference was with the polishing of the back. Sharpening the bevel was barley distinguishable but I could see a slight difference in the resistance.

If, from the dmt, you polished the back with the felt, then sharpened with the dmt, the difference would be almost unnoticeable from sharpening with the Arkansas. I’d have to do it a few more times to really know for sure, but my gut tells me the Arkansas would have a slight edge.




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Sanding blocks made from Stanley plane parts.

I hate to throw anything away. I figured someday I’d think of something to do with the broken hand plane pieces.

These are all from un-restorable bases. Most of the knobs and totes are from pieces bad enough I wouldn’t put them back on a plane. I’m glad I found a use for them.

The largest one has an Ash inlay and I added a Ash tip to the broken rosewood tote. The front can be held similar to a wood bodied plane and seems very comfortable to use.

On the first small one I made a 1/4” x 20” brass nut out of some barstock similar to the Stanley, but in using it I found I grab around the knob so the rest I just used a wing nut. My hand never rode against the wing nut.

Next is a cherry tote with some defects so I didn’t want to put it on a regular plane. I made a blank brass filler to fill the hole.

I probably could have also used this badley repaired (no it wasn’t my repair) tote, but while the real was glued up, I used this for its trial.

A front view before final sanding. The Ash inlay was epoxied into the plane.

Thanks for taking a look!

Just some new knobs and totes


A new set of bloodwood knob and tote for a #2. Shown on one of my my #2s




A set of Walnut.

Page 3 – Some Before and After Pictures (My Restores)

Page 3 – Some Before and After Pictures (My Restores)Page 2 – Some Before and After Pictures (My Restores)Page 1 – Some Before and After Pictures (My Restores)



I bought this #5 figuring it was a parts plane. It didn’t have a lever cap (the one in the before is one I added) and the rust was pretty bad, so I figured it was toast.

But with a lot of TLC, I think its back in true form. A type 9 I believe. The blade is pitted bad enough that I can’t see what the logo was, but the pitting stops at the cap.


Page 3 – Some Before and After Pictures (My Restores)Page 2 – Some Before and After Pictures (My Restores)Page 1 – Some Before and After Pictures (My Restores)

How about a Stanley type 5 #4 restore with some Character?

So seemingly a typical restore, but through the rust and grime I never noticed the break/fix on the rear of the heel. The fix was pretty old and its solid. And the hole, well that’s a mystery. Maybe the owner thought it would help hold the broken tote. Either way, this seems like a nice type 5 #4 with a bunch of character.



I Replaced the transitional cap with a one from a reasonably close vintage. I’ll still need to finds the right iron (cap screw hole in the top) but that’s a minor detail.

Added some cherry wood to dress it up a little.