A jointer worth a mention

I found this In a small barn on Antique Alley, rt 4 in NH. The owner, Charlie, is 89 years old. He’s still hitting Donnelly’s auctions.




For the weekend I came home with some cool stuff,



Some of it will be for sale soon. So keep an eye out or contact me if there is something of interest.

All I could say when I found it was, “This is so cool”.

A long ago infill made from 2 pieces of angle iron. A tree branch for a handle. The bottom has been screwed and then flattened. I had tot try it. Just a few strokes on the oil stone and away we went.


Its 27” long.




Happy Hunting!



The Beast. A 36" wood bodied Jointer Plane

With a little motivation from Mos I decided to build the wooden jointer I’ve always wanted to build. I’m not sure why, I guess just because its there, but I’ve restore a lot of wood bodied jointers and always wanted to build one.

I had some reclaimed oak that fit the bill fine. This is the same stock I built my deadman out of.

Since it was already semi clean it was just a matter of running it through the planer and cutting it to size. Its just about 1/2” wider than the iron/chipbreaker.

I had found a perfect 2 5/8” Moulson Bros vintage iron and chip breaker.

Next up was the layout. Its marked for a 50 degree bed. I was kind of copying another jointer which had a 50 degree front face as well, so that’s what I used.

Cutting was fairly simple with the layout done. Just remember where to not cut to deep.

A little chiseling and rasping and it was ready for a trial fit.

With close to a perfect fit, I glued it up and left it for the night.

While the glue was drying I did a rough out of the wedge.

Not wanting to go much farther on the wedge, I turned my attention to the tote. I marked out a piece of oak a little over an inch thick, cut it out on the band saw. Drilled the center in a couple places and finished hogging it out with the jig saw.

I then hit the appropriate areas on both sides with a 1/2” round over bit. From there it was multiple rasps to get it into shape.

That was it for the day. The following day I turned my attention back to the body. A little hand plane work, and some belt sanding, it was really starting to take shape.

It was then time to clean up the mouth area.

And of course cut the groove for the chip breaker screw.

Final fitting and shaping on the wedge

And back to see where the tote looks good

I then drilled it out with a forstner bit and chiseled as needed.

A little more fitting on the handle and fit it to the plane.

I just couldn’t go any further with testing it.

I’ll call it a success I think.

And I tested it out on oak as well. I was really just playing at this point.

Just a bit more sanding and a coat of BLO.

Final length is just a little under 36”. 36” is quit long and a little hard to handle. I just couldn’t bring myself to cut it. It will be great for flattening big bench tops. And I like to just stand back and admire it.

I had to reshot some of the pictured when I realized the plane swap plane was in the picture. Almost gave it away!

Thanks for stopping buy.

Tool Chest Redux. Now that’s better!

So in the last post (Part 1) we left with a almost finished tote.

The tote fits nicely in the front of the chest.

And sits nicely on top when in use.

The next thing I did was cut the saw till down so it will sit in the bottom, under the sliding shelves.

So now what’s left is to figure out what tools go in it. If you look into the tote, one of the small existing shelves fit perfect for a divider.

I also had a question on the bottom of the chest. I’m not sure what or how this came about, but it has a raised panel bottom, almost like the current bottom, was a top at one time.

And I found this inside.

but haven’t decided what to do with it. If it was complete, I’d reattach it.

The extension was made from poplar.
The cover and the top is red oak.
I believe the original is pine.
I was actually thinking of painting the outside, but I came to my senses. I know it doesn’t match, but it’s close enough for me.

A vintage Wheel drive for the leg vise

Ever since I’ve seen the wheel drive like the bench craft I thought it would be pretty cool to have, as an upgrade to my leg vice. But I’m more of a vintage guy, so something that new and shinny wouldn’t fit the decor of my shop. Plus, at over $300, I find it hard to justify.

So as I saw wheels in flea markets and antique shops I’d stop and look. Most were way more than I thought they were worth, and I even bought an old tractor steering wheel, but it just didn’t seem to fit. Then one day I ran onto this in an antique shop. The price was right, so home it came.

Heavy, vintage and cool. So lets see if it will work. I had to purchase a set of larger drill bits. I needed to enlarged the hole slightly to 15/16”. A set of bits were only about $30, so I ordered them.

So I popped the pin and removed the existing handle
Made a new cherry knob.


And what do you know. A working vintage wheeled leg vice.



Thanks for stopping by.

Shop built Thickness-Drum Sander

I’ve decided to build a thickness planer. There are many posted here on the net and I’ve looked at a lot of them. (maybe all, at least all I could find)

-Thank You for all those that posted their builds. The ideas and processes have been very helpful.

the drum will be made from 5” maple disk. Total sanding width will be 18”

I seen one model built with the pulley built right into the wood drum. The more I though about it the more I liked the idea. This allows the drive force to be on the drum itself. The shaft is no longer driving the drum, the drum drives the shaft, which is just there to keep it in place.

You’ll note the drum hasn’t been trued up yet. My original plan was to glue 2 un-drilled ends and turn it on the lathe, but once I got that far I realized there was a good chance the holes wouldn’t get lined up right. I’ll true it once its on the base.

So a few other questions.
I plan to set the pivot point of the deck on a full length 5/8” shaft at the back of the unit. I’ve got a few pieces of harden shaft laying around and figured the full length will help racking a little.

I also figured I could make a series of holes so the shaft could be pulled out, and the deck could then be moved to a lower or higher position for thicker or thinner pieces. My concern is I haven’t seen this done, and it seems logical. What would the negative be?

There is one sander made that has a plexiglass dust shield. I like the idea, but plexiglass is getting pretty expensive locally. Besides the “cool” factor, what are the advantages?

I was thinking of painting (easy Smit) the sander, maybe a machine grey. Thoughts. Should I paint it or leave it natural and just oil it.

For now I only have a 1/6 hp motor. I know that won’t cut it, so I need to find another. What is the smallest you would use, and what’s recommended?

And here is truing up the drum

Here is the deck, all glued up.

And as the glue was drying I made the scissor lever for the height adjuster. I got them cut and welded together

And progress otherwise.

Not much left to do until I get some sand paper and decide on a motor