A Brass Upgrade for a #2.

So I purchased a Stanley #2 with a crack in the side. The crack was bad enough that I knew if it got used it would continue and eventually break. In a moment of weakness, I decided to try to weld it. And weld it I did. The weld worked to the point it would have allowed the plane to be used, but I just couldn’t get rid of the pot marks.

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I filled the pits with JB Weld and was going to leave it at that, but…..

I went to plane B…….

I’ve wanted to try this for a while now and theoretically it shouldn’t be that hard. Unfortunately,  this project was meant to add layers to my graying hair. I broke more drill bits, buried more taps, and created more work for myself than all other plane builds I’ve done to date. Its almost like I angered some plane god with my shenanigans.

But, the frog is bolted directly to the base with holes drilled and tapped, very similar to what it was like in the original base.

The frog, iron, cap and lever cap are what was on the original #2, along with the knob and tote.

The lever cap looks like its was replaced at one time. It looks more like it was one of the painted type. Its a lot courser than most stanley lever caps and the lever hits the cap, there is no spring under it. I may build a new lever cap. I was thinking brass, but I’m afraid it will be to much brass. I like the idea of a cap screw type like I put on my infill’s.

This project is a perfect example that hiding mistakes is just as important in metal work, as it is in wood work. As of this writing, I’ve handed it off to a mechanic friend to extract a 10-24 tap that is in a particular spot I MUST have a bolt.

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This next picture is a cross section before starting to fasten things together. Its kind of a “here’s where I’m headed with this” shot. 

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The bottom is a piece of 3/8” cold rolled steel I picked up at tractor supply. I’ve used it in a couple of planes now. I like the precision ground better, since my lack of metal working equipment makes it harder to square things up, but I had this piece, so it got used.

The sides are 1/8” brass.

I took a bolt, drilled and tapped it for a receiver for the tote screw. Its beveled to match the Stanley angle and welded in place.

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The tote bolt is a piece of 1/4” x 20 threaded rod.

 

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The nut is a piece of 7/16” brass rod, drilled and tapped for the 1/4 x 20 rod. I cut the slot with the dremel cut off wheel, which was another disaster. I had to take my dremel apart and “work” over the switch to get it to work again!

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The knob and tote are Bloodwood. The knob bolt and nut were made similar to the tote’s. For the receiver I simply welded a 1/4” x 20 nut to the base.

 

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The sides are pinned with 10 – 24 stainless steel bolts.

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I could have sworn I had some money shots, but maybe the plane gods got to them before I did.

I hope you enjoyed the adventure. All comments and thoughts welcome.

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York Pitch Shop make Smoother

For a while I’ve wanted to try a 55 degree high angle frog plane. I had thought about building one, but I’ve never really been taken by the hammer adjuster type planes. I have a lot of them, and I do use them once in a while, but truth be told, I prefer the Stanley type blade adjustment. I even prefer it over the Norris type adjusters.

I decided to try using a typical frog on a wooden plane. As I was designing it, I decided on a transitional frog, because it gave more wood under the frog.

Main body is white oak, front body is wenge, and sides are maple.

Finish is BLO.

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